Finishing up in Guatemala

July 29, 2008

Last report from the field! We’re in Guatemala City now–our flight leaves tomorrow afternoon.
We’ve definitely slowed down since my last writing–hard to keep up the same pace. Makes me sad because we dropped a lot of activities and places from our itinerary that I had hoped to do–you just get too tired of hopping on buses every day and feel like sitting and enjoying one place a little more leisurely.

Our horseback trip was lovely–beats walking uphill. Pro: Large group of butterflies floating around us at times. Con: my horse hugging the sides of the trail, scrapping me along trees, thorny bushes and snagging me on branches. Had one of the best fillets with mushroom sauce ever that night for dinner (after a lunch of ice cream and pastries–we’re on vacation afterall)!
Back in San Salvador we enjoyed the metropolitan part of the city (similar prices to the US) and took in an Anthropology museum. Visited an overwhelming three level, 10 winged mall! On the way back to our hotel, we took the right public bus at the wrong time (last bus of the day) as it was returning back to it’s nighttime depot on the opposite side of town. Clueless we found ourselves in a dark, rough, neighborhood at "the end of the line" feeling helpless and scared–and walking fast uphill in search of non-existent taxis. Of course everything turned out alright.
We were up early the next day and traveled 4 ½ hours or so from San Salvador to Guatemala City and straight on to Antigua (another hour). We had laundry done for the last time–26 lbs of it–Bob sure does generate the most! Antigua sure is a gorgeous colonial town (do you see a pattern here–I love colonial towns with cobblestone streets, old churches, stucco walls, red tile roofs, etc.) We stayed at a place with the picturesque views of the surrounding volcanoes and most amazing gardens, fountains and grounds. We had a whole little "casita" with kitchen and living room for two nights so could cook a little, have a fire in the fireplace and play games together in the evenings. The king size bed wasn’t bad either! I could have poked around in the shops and courtyards of the many fine hotels and restaurants for weeks. But alas we had to move on.

Guatemala has been a much different experience from the rest of CA as it is 65% indigenous, with most of the women wearing their traditional wrapped skirts and embroidered blouses and woven belts. Only a few of the old men still wear traditional dress. The highlands where we were was much cooler than Nicaragua, though it was still surprisingly hot in the sun. Not all the tropical fruits–more vegetables and coffee grown. The driving is crazier, the selling much pushier (the indians use their smallness, cuteness and all their children to their advantage!!) In all, it’s a much more invasive experience and it got to us after awhile--everyone always offering their services, or "for you good price" or perhaps we’re just tired out and it’s time to go home. Still this is the country (besides El Salvador) I’d like to come back to most, since I feel there is so much I didn’t get to see that I’d like to see yet–just ran out of steam.

We spent 4 days in the Lake Atitlan region, staying in Panajachel, but visiting by boat other villages around the lake–Santiago and San Pedro. Bob and David tried to climb another volcano but didn’t have the time or money to make it all the way up and back home before the water taxis stopped running. Did a whole lot of shopping but not as much buying as I would have liked–so hard to know what stuff is worth. I’m cheap but I also do not want to in any way offend people for the hard work they have put into their beautiful handiwork.. Bad combination. You have to bargain on things and I’m pretty good at that, but I have no idea what a fair price is for most items and the price is often inflated 60% or more. A frustrating and exhausting process. All those colors overwhelm the eyes!

So we’re looking forward to our own beds and pillows, seeing Lucky again (will he remember us?) being able to park our toothbrush in one place, being able to drink water out of the faucet and flush the toilet paper down the toilet instead of throwing in the wastepaper basket, being able to use the computer when we want to (okay that doesn’t always cooperate even at home), and making a phone call again (we’ve been without for six weeks). And of course catching up

with family and friends.

Hope to talk to YOU soon.

Jenifer and Bob